PART II. CAT CARE Chapter 5. The Daily Routine

Cats are not the least bit uncertain about their ability to take care of themselves. This, however, does not discourage the people with whom they live. By close observation of cat's habits and preferences they learn to do for cat many of the things cat ordinarily would do for herself. This is known as cat care.

Actually, of course, cat care harmonizes the mutual existence of cat and man and reduces the inconveniences of their relationship to a minimum. In the cities of the civilized world, which have a few natural accommodations for cats, these arrangements undoubtedly are benefi­cial and even necessary. But it is also true that the farther out into the country one goes, the less is cat care of real concern to cat or man.

With the normal cat, man has to meet only a few basic situations.

First of all, the entrance of a new little cat into a household requires that the creature be made welcome. This is best done by appreciating that, to a kitten standing barely higher than your shoe tops, everything —beginning with you—seems of overwhelming size and potentially dan­gerous. Since the cat has both curiosity and courage, she will make her adjustment and her peace with her environment. But you can help by being patient and gentle. Avoid the sudden swift gesture that startles. Tone down the loud laugh. Let the kitten get used to you slowly. Keep petting and handling to a minimum at first. Kittens are fun to fondle, but it is literally possible to kill them with kindness. It is also a good idea to introduce the kitten to its new home one room at a time.

If all this seems like advice designed to keep you from enjoying a cat, that is not the intention. This tempering of your enthusiasm need not restrict your pleasure. What is important is getting your association with your cat off to a good start.

Your Basic Duties

Your first duty is to provide your cat with a bed. Her preferences are in accord with universal standards: it should be warm and dry, of comfortable size, bug-free and protected from drafts. There are plenty of places meeting these requirements admirably, even in a four-room apartment — bookshelves, the floor in front of the hot-air vent, the master's bed — but most folks feel better if they have provided their pet with a box of some sort. And most cats enjoy the cozy confine­ment of a box well enough to use it. Beyond this, whether the box or its lining is plain or fancy is a matter of individual taste—your taste, because the cat won't care.

The only other article of furniture an indoor cat needs is a pan. There are cats who, by some stroke of fate, have learned to use the human toilet, but yours probably isn't one of them. Buy a pan. Enameled metal is best and easiest to keep clean. It should be large enough for the cat to maneuver in comfortably, but the sides should be low. It should be kept in one location, and it may be filled with sand, shredded news­paper or sawdust.

A house-trained mother cat will teach her kittens to use the pan, but if you should by chance acquire one that never got the word, it is easy enough to set the kitten straight. First, show it the pan. Second, after each meal traipse the kitten over to the pan and keep it there— without using undue force, of course—until it performs. You will feel that you are devoting an awful lot of time to this chore, and so you are. But very shortly you will be able to gauge when (it's usually under a half hour after the kitten has eaten) and for how long your assistance will be needed.

Don't clean the pan until it has been used two or three times; even­tually, a bright little cat will get the idea and trot to the pan of its own accord.

Cats are tidy creatures. When they have the opportunity to deal with matters in their own way, out-of-doors, they select a spot that offers some privacy, dig a small hole with their forepaws, eliminate and then neatly refill the hole. Indoors, a cat will feel much better about using a pan if the sand or paper in it is ample for her to paw around and approximate her normal procedure.

In cleaning the pan use warm water and soap. Steer clear of power­ful disinfectants. They are unpleasant and very often harmful to cats, and almost surely will persuade them never to use the pan again.

Bathing a cat is an experience to be avoided. Ordinarily, she is quite capable of bath herself. The rough pink tongue does most of the job directly, and moistens the forepaw for cleaning the face and hard-to-reach spots behind the ears. Occasionally, however, owing to a skin irritation or other emergency problem, a bath may be prescribed. The water should be lukewarm and shallow, the soap mild and unmedicated (unless the vet says otherwise). Theoretically, the cat is placed in the water, thoroughly soaped (careful around the eyes!), spray-rinsed, wrapped in a towel and briskly rubbed until dry.

This is all easier said than done. Keep tincture of merthiolate handy —you will very likely end up with some long, red skin irritations of your own.

For all practical purposes, brushing a cat is the best way to assist her own efforts. Use a stiff-bristle brush — not wire — on her coat a few minutes each day. It will remove loose hair and dried skin, which not only makes kitty feel fine but keeps her from swallowing too much hair as she cleans herself. A good way to help short-haired cats get rid of loose hair is to wet the palm of your hand and stroke the cat about 50 times. The moisture will pick up the loose hairs. And cats won't object to it as they might a brush.

Most cats are playful and enjoy toys, which need not be numerous or elaborate. A catnip mouse or catnip-impregnated rubber ball are fun. Otherwise, a spool, or even a string with a twist of paper tied to one end, is enough to start a cat leaping, dancing and chasing.

City cats probably should have a scratching post. This is an 18-inch upright, about three or four inches in diameter, attached to a base and covered with a piece of old carpeting. It offers kitty a chance to hone her

claws a bit, which periodically she will want to do, without ruining – the couch. Make the base large enough so the contraption won't tip over, and put some catnip under the carpeting.

If, even with a scratching post, your cat insists upon clawing the fur­niture, slap the palm of your hand sharply with a rolled-up newspaper. The noise will frighten her, and she should stop after a few repeat per­formances. But you must catch her in the process each time.

Cats and Other Pets

Despite their reputation for unfriendliness, cats can and often do become friendly with other animals. Cats who through some mischance have lost their kittens are especially prone, perhaps through a hormonal impulse, to adopt and mother the most unlikely small fry. Little chicks, ducklings, rats, mice, squirrels, rabbits, puppies — the list may well be endless—have all at one time or another lived in harmony with cats.

Somewhat more difficult, because it has not been arranged by the cat, is keeping alien pets together under the same roof. Usually this in­volves dog and cat, and the results are unpredictable, though success­ful often enough to be worth trying.

It's easiest, of course, to raise puppies and kittens together, as they have been on countless farms. Puppies, whatever problems they may have, are the soul of good fellowship, open, trusting, everybody's friend—which means that half the battle is won. Kittens, if not mauled or frightened out of their wits, will spit their protests for a few days and then learn to live and let live.

The same pattern generally is followed when a kitten is introduced to a family's adult dog, although care must be taken that the canine, in a transport of joy, does not break his little playfellow's neck.

A much rougher situation arises when a defenseless puppy joins a household in which an adult cat is well entrenched and reigns supreme. It can be worked out, but you have to want a dog an awful lot. In this case, or in the even more hopeless one of adult dog and adult cat, start by having your vet trim the cat's claws. This is trickier than it seems and should be professionally done.

Don't confront the pets with each other immediately. Keep them in the house but separated — if possible — for several days. This will inform each that there's a stranger in the house but that, since the new smell lingers, he, she or it must belong. Familiarity, normality and habit all serve to break down the basic and traditional fears, hostilities and inse­curities felt between species.

Let the first meeting be casual and brief. Stick around to see that a fight doesn't develop, but don't interfere any more than you have to. It figures that any show of favoritism will be deeply resented by the one left out, especially the cat. And a scolding of one in front of the other will be most mortifying, especially for the cat.

If all goes well, cat and dog will begin eventually to exchange a friendly lick. When they nestle together for a snooze, play together and eat together (from separate dishes), love has triumphed.

Be prepared to be a good loser, though, if your pets just don't take a shine to each other. It will be a fairly miserable existence for the smaller, the weaker, the more fearful one, whichever it is.

Neutering

In every cat owner's life comes the time when the decision to inter­fere, or not, with the pet's sexual functions must be faced.

This is called "neutering," or "altering," or, more directly, castra­tion in the case of the male and spaying in the female. Castration is sur­gical removal of the testicles. Spaying is an abdominal operation for removal of uterus and ovaries.

Both operations can be performed by a veterinarian with almost cer­tain success, although spaying is more serious and the outcome will depend to some extent on the general good health of the cat. Recovery in either case usually takes about five days. And insist on an anesthetic. It's a lot easier on everyone, and will not add materially to the bill.

The arguments about neutering, pro and con, boil down essentially to two considerations: Do feline sexual habits bother you? Do you want kittens? These are yours to answer. Obviously cats aren't bothered, and apparently they want kittens. From a human standpoint, male cats are definitely milder if castrated and pretty obstreperous if they're not. In full possession of their powers, they fight and yowl and spray the prem­ises with urine.

The real problem comes with the female. As noted elsewhere her sexual behavior is mostly embarrassing; her productivity, however, can be overwhelming. It often seems simpler to deprive her of the ability to have kittens than to go through the misery of disposing of her many litters. If neutering is to be done, it's best done between six and eight months, although if you want your female to have a litter or two, it can be done later. Cats are such wonderful mothers, that it seems a shame to rob them of the opportunity to bear and raise kittens — at least once. Don't worry about your cat's becoming slack or fat. This is still a matter of diet more than anything else. Nor will your cat lose the im­pulse or ability to hunt mice. There just won't be any tomcatting, or any kittens.

Unwanted Kittens

The most humane way of (disposing of unwanted kittens is to take them from the mother as soon as possible after birth and have your vet or local ASPCA put them to sleep. If you wait until the mother cat has begun to get used to them and care for them, you'll have a mighty un­happy pet to account to for your heartlessness in breaking up the home.

Once the little family is established it's only fair to the mother to wait until weaning time, about eight weeks. Then ask your humane society to find the kittens a home or ... well, look those babies straight in their faces and decide for yourself.

The Old Cat

Another painful moment comes when the well-loved pet reaches the end of its allotted span. Much as you may want to prolong an old asso­ciation, it may be that illness or infirmity is making the cat's life difficult. Each cat owner must choose for himself the best course to follow, but it should be known and understood that modern drugs are swift, pain­less and mercifully efficient.

Feeding Your Cat

Feeding a cat properly is largely a matter of using good sense. What man has learned about the values of the food he eats applies pretty generally to cats, too. They need proteins, vitamins, minerals and the rest. Almost any food rich in these elements is good for the cat—if she likes it and doesn't have to eat too much to get the essential benefits.

This may horrify the purists. There are many cat owners and ex­perts who supervise their animals' intake right down to the last drop of vitamin concentrate, and many who obey such long-standing taboos as no starches, no vegetables, no table scraps, and so on. This shows consideration for the cat and will do her no harm. Indeed, the majority of cats so fed are undoubtedly strong and healthy.

The point is, though, that successful results can also be achieved with less attention to detail and more to the general effect of your cat's diet on her appearance and vitality. A healthy cat is neither fat nor thin. Her eyes are bright, her fur is thick and shiny and she is as active as her age allows. You do not need to know much to keep her that way.

Some general points first.

It's almost impossible to say how much or how often a cat should be fed. This must be worked out with the individual cat. Try only to avoid the extremes of over- and underfeeding.

This is not so easy as it sounds. Cats are interested in food and eat­ing—yours as well as theirs. No matter how well they may have dined, or how recently, they will sit staring wistfully whenever people eat. The temptation to share with them is strong, but resist it. It is bo favor to your cat to let her get fat and flabby from overeating.

At the same time, don't think that because she has caught a mouse she's through eating for the day. There is food value in all the creatures a cat catches, but in these civilized times it is difficult for her to snare enough of them to keep herself adequately fed. Remember, too, that hunting is hard work. No cat can do it well on an empty stomach.

Feed your cat at regular times each day, and keep her bowl in the same place. Serve her food at room temperature, and always keep fresh water available to her.

Cats have been known to like, and thrive on, so many unusual items that few foods can be ruled out absolutely. It seems to be agreed, though, that salted or spiced meats are not good; that pork in all its varieties is probably the least satisfactory meat; that a small amount of vegetables goes a long way; that any bone which splinters is deadly and must be avoided; and that candy and cake are less than ideal.

What's good? Practically anything else the cat will eat.

Lean, raw meat is most attractive. Beef, lamb, veal, poultry are all dandy, if you can afford them. Horsemeat, frozen or canned, is just as healthy—and cheaper. Pork is possible, but should be cooked. Fish is fine, but it, too, should be cooked—and boned.

Perhaps more than anything else cats relish innards—liver, kidneys, heart, lung, gizzard. Unless you are a giblet fancier yourself, these items are a fairly inexpensive way to give your cat a de luxe diet without cut­ting into your own menu. Beef heart and lung, in particular, are pieces for which most butchers are willing to charge little or nothing. Also chicken heads—if you can stand them. Serve all of these things raw.

Prepared cat foods are nutritious and tasty, although you may have to discover which flavors your cat prefers. The main thing is to avoid monotony.  Alternate prepared meat, fish and cereal dishes with horse-meat and innards, or whatever serves as a special treat at your house.  Your

cat does not need a different dish at every meal, but she will appre­ciate variety and, in fact, will probably require it to guarantee that her diet is properly balanced.

She will need a raw egg two or three times a week to brighten up her fur. And an occasional spoonful of green vegetable—spinach, parsley, lettuce — will help keep her vitamin intake up. Again, serve raw, and without seasoning. Ideally, the vegetables should be mixed with a food the cat is very fond of. Normally she won't eat vegetables straight.

For their medicinal quality rather than their food value, it is wise to include a little garlic and a little mineral or vegetable oil in a cat's bill of fare. Garlic is insurance against worms in the intestinal tract, and the oil helps prevent the formation of hair bails in the stomach. The garlic—about half a clove—can be mashed and mixed with the cat's din­ner once every couple of weeks. The oil may be mixed or given straight. The oil in a sardine can meets the need very well.

Despite tradition, milk is not necessarily a favorite food of adult cats. They may drink it occasionally or disdain it completely. Either way, don't fuss about it. Grown-up cats will get the same values else­where.

You may discover, usually by accident, that your cat has a taste for something unheard of—perhaps grapes or peanut butter or Münster cheese. If so, indulge her every once in a while. It won't hurt her.

Feeding Kittens

The feeding of kittens is a little more complicated, mostly because attention must be paid to the frequency and amount of their meals.

The mother cat normally does the job very nicely for the first month. Your only contribution will be to see that she is herself well fed, both during pregnancy and after the young ones have arrived. She will need bone-building calcium and muscle-building proteins in particular, and more water than usual while she is nursing. If her milk supply seems insufficient you can supplement the kittens' diet with a small amount of slightly warmed, watered-down milk (unsweetened evaporated milk is easier to digest than milk with a high fat content).

By the time kittens are a month old they can begin to eat solids and should be encouraged to do so. Eggs, milk, fine-ground beef or horsemeat, or the various human baby foods containing meat are ideal for small, growing cats. It's also not too early to start introducing them to garlic.

Up to two months, the kittens should eat about four meals a day, at regular intervals. Quantities are small—perhaps a tablespoon of meat or half a jar of baby food at each meal, plus a shot or two of milk or milk-egg mixture.

After two months, the meals can be reduced to three (and eventually to two) a day, but quantities should be increased until the cat is getting slightly over a third of a pound of meat at each feeding. As noted, the amount may vary, depending on the cat. Whatever keeps her in fine fettle is just right for her. If you're in doubt, however, consult your vet.

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